Roll Pins

Roll pins work by controlled interference: the pin's outer diameter is slightly larger than the hole, so driving it in compresses the slotted tube and generates radial force against the bore wall. That tension holds the pin in place without thread or adhesive. They're a go-to for machinery assembly, agricultural linkages, hand tool pivots, and anywhere you need to service the joint later without drilling out a solid dowel.

Match the pin diameter to the reamed or drilled hole size — there's no wiggle room. If the hole is worn or oversized, the pin won't grip. If it's undersized, you'll split the pin or deform the bore driving it in. Chamfer the hole entry to guide the pin, and use a parallel drift or pin punch to seat it flush. Driving on an angle can collapse the tube and jam it partway.

Spring pins come slotted (one slit, lighter duty) or spiral-wrapped (continuous coil, higher shear strength). For general workshop use, slotted pins handle most locating and retention jobs. If you're pinning against high shear or cyclic load — PTO shafts, implement hitches — check the design load and consider a spiral type or a solid dowel instead. Assortments cover the common sizes you'll reach for on repair work; buy individual bulk packs for production or repeat jobs.