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Clevis Pins

Clevis pins join linkages, control arms, and adjustable assemblies where you need a hinge that can be quickly removed. They sit inside a clevis fork, held by a split pin or R-clip through the cross-hole. You'll find them on tractor hitches, trailer couplings, lifting gear, and hydraulic ram ends. Size matters — an undersized pin wears the fork oval, an oversized one won't fit when the bolt holes don't line up. Check the diameter against the clevis bore and the cross-hole position against the grip length before you order.

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Clevis pins are specified by shank diameter and grip length, the working section between the head and cross-hole. Imperial sizes run in sixteenths — 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" are common on older machinery and imported trailers. Metric pins exist, but many agricultural and haulage applications still use imperial fasteners, so an assortment covering the common diameters saves a trip when you're swapping implements or rigging a temporary tow.

Most pins are bright zinc-plated mild steel, adequate for linkages under shear load where corrosion isn't critical. If the joint sees weather or road salt, grease the pin before assembly and swap it out when the zinc wears through. Stainless clevis pins exist for marine or food-processing gear, but they're softer — don't use them where lateral hammering loads occur, like on a cultivator linkage bouncing over stones.

The cross-hole takes a split pin or an R-clip. Split pins are single-use — the legs bend open and you cut them off to remove. R-clips slide on and off without tools, faster for assemblies you adjust often, but they can vibrate loose if the hole tolerances are sloppy. Match the clip wire diameter to the cross-hole — too thin and it rattles, too thick and it won't pass through. If you lose the clip in the field, a nail or cable tie will hold until you get back to the shed, but replace it properly before the next job.