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CVJ Boots

CVJ boots keep grease in and dirt out of constant-velocity joints on drive shafts. When a boot splits, the joint loses lubrication and grit works its way into the bearings — catch it early and a new boot saves the joint. Stretch boots pull over the joint without disassembly; split boots clip on where access is tight. Sizing matters: measure the shaft diameter and the joint housing, then pick a boot that covers both ends of the range with enough overlap to grip under the clamp.

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Stretch boots are moulded rubber with enough give to roll over the joint and shaft splines without splitting the boot open. You still pull the shaft, but you skip unbolting the joint itself — faster if the CV isn't seized. The size range stamped on the boot (60–78 mm, 74–96 mm, and so on) tells you the minimum and maximum diameters it'll seal; check both the shaft and the joint bell to make sure they fall inside that window. Too loose and the clamp won't hold; too tight and the rubber tears when you stretch it on.

Split boots open along one seam, wrap around the joint, then close with a built-in fastener or separate clamps. They're the only option when you can't pull the shaft — inner CVJs on some all-wheel-drive layouts, or when the joint itself is corroded onto the splines. The trade-off is the seam: it's a potential leak path, so fit matters more. Universal split boots cover a wide diameter range (56–120 mm) but need careful alignment and tight clamps at both ends to avoid working loose under torque.

Clamps hold the boot ends against the shaft and housing. Ear clamps crimp closed with pliers — they're one-time-use, low-profile, and stay put if you crimp them square. Spring clamps and screw clamps are reusable but sit proud of the boot; watch clearance on tight installations. Whatever the clamp type, clean both mating surfaces, seat the boot fully into its grooves, then tighten evenly to avoid pinching the rubber.