Anvils

Bench-mounted anvils differ mainly in weight, face material, and how they fix down. Lighter castings (under 10 kg) suit panel work and light forming; heavier forged models (25 kg and up) absorb hammer energy better and stay put under repeated blows. The face should be harder than what you're working — a soft face will dish under chisel work or punch marks. Check the mounting slots: some anvils use through-bolts, others rely on a central stud. Through-bolt designs give a more rigid fix if your bench framing allows it.

Horn shape matters if you're doing any curved forming — a longer, tapered horn lets you work different radii without repositioning the piece. If the anvil's just for straightening or rivet setting, a short horn or no horn keeps the footprint smaller. Cast anvils are quieter under the hammer but can crack if you miss a blow onto an edge; forged bodies tolerate the occasional off-target hit better. Either way, mount the anvil so the face sits roughly at knuckle height when your arm hangs straight — that puts your shoulder behind the hammer stroke without hunching.