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Extractors

Extractors for removing damaged fasteners — broken bolts, rounded studs, sheared screws. Two main types: helix (spiral flute, left-hand bite) and square taper (hammered or driven into a drilled pilot). Sets cover common sizes; individual impact extractors fit a ratchet or impact wrench for torque on seized metric studs. Sealey and Premier both supply workshop-grade sets.

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Helix extractors grip inside a drilled hole and turn anticlockwise as you back the fastener out — the tighter it jams, the harder they bite. They work well on screws with enough remaining shank. Square-taper extractors are hammered into an undersized pilot hole, then turned with a wrench or socket; the taper wedges into the hole as you apply torque. Pick helix for accessibility and controlled removal, square for stubborn bolts where impact is an option.

Impact stud extractors are a different tool entirely: a six-point socket with reverse-spiral internal teeth. Slip it over the protruding stud, strike or drive it on, and the spiral grips as you turn. They're fast on rounded or damaged hex heads and work with standard impact guns or ratchets. Sizes typically run 6 mm to 12 mm; check the stud diameter and condition before choosing drive size—3/8" for lighter work, 1/2" for higher torque.

Drill the pilot hole straight and to the extractor's specified diameter. Too small and you'll snap the tool; too large and it won't grip. Use cutting fluid, especially in stainless or hardened fasteners, and back off if you feel the extractor start to twist under load. If a helix extractor does break off flush, you're usually into drilling it out or a machine shop. Match the extractor type to access, fastener material, and how much shank is left — there's no one-size solution.