Vehicle Lifts

Portable pivot lifts use a single hydraulic ram to tilt one axle upward, so you can work under that end of the car without a full four-post rig. They're useful in tight spaces or when you need to move the lift between jobs. The 1.5-tonne models suit most hatchbacks and saloons; step up to 2.25 tonnes for vans or heavier SUVs. Air-hydraulic units combine a shop air supply with hydraulic pressure, giving you faster lift cycles than a hand pump — the foot pedal versions let you raise the vehicle without bending down to a manual lever. Fixed scissor lifts stay planted in one bay and spread the load across four contact pads, which keeps the chassis stable when you're working overhead on exhaust or gearbox jobs. Check the collapsed height against your floor if you're working in a low-ceiling unit or domestic garage — some models need 150 mm clearance to slide under the sills.

Lock mechanisms vary: ratchet bars or hydraulic hold. Ratchet locks engage at set intervals as the lift rises; hydraulic hold relies on valve integrity. If the lift will sit loaded for hours, a mechanical lock removes any risk of slow bleed-down. Lifting points on the vehicle matter more than the lift's rated capacity — consult the car's handbook for jacking locations (usually chassis rails or reinforced sill sections) and position the lift pads there. Lifting from a sill pinch-weld without a rubber pad will crease the metalwork. Keep the work area clear of trailing air hoses and power leads when the vehicle is overhead.