Screwdrivers

Pick the tool by grip style and torque output. Pistol-grip models give better control on heavier fasteners and longer runs; inline composite drivers suit repetitive work where fatigue matters. Both types need clean, dry air at around 6 bar — moisture and debris will kill the vanes quickly, so run a filter-regulator-lubricator upstream if you don't already. Most tools ship without a quick-coupler; match the plug type to your existing fittings to avoid adaptor stacks that leak pressure.

Torque adjustment usually sits at the base of the handle or behind the air inlet. Set it low and test on scrap before committing to the job — air screwdrivers don't have electronic clutches, so over-torque strips threads or cracks housings with no warning. If you're working to a spec (aerospace brackets, electronics enclosures), verify final torque with a beam wrench or clicker. Free speed tells you how fast the bit spins unloaded; actual driving speed drops under load, especially near stall torque. For production work, higher free speed reduces cycle time without sacrificing control if you're used to the trigger.

Bit retention is either magnetic or a collet. Magnetic chucks are faster to swap but won't hold in high-vibration applications; collets grip harder and suit impact-rated bits. Standard 1/4" hex fits most driver bits, but check the shank length — some composite tools have shallow recesses that won't seat long security bits. Keep spares of the exhaust deflector and air inlet screen; both clog with shop dust and cutting swarf, and a blocked exhaust back-pressures the motor.