Nailers/Staplers

Pneumatic nailers drive fasteners with compressed air — typically 60–100 psi from a workshop compressor. Trigger response is faster than a hand tacker and there's no arm strain over long runs of fencing staples or trim nails. Most guns are single-fastener: a nailer takes coil or strip nails, a stapler takes staples, a combination tool handles both if you swap the nose and magazine.

Match the capacity range to the work. A 10–50 mm nailer covers skirting, architrave, and light cladding; shorter ranges suit upholstery tacks and panel pins. Staple guns list the leg length — 13–32 mm handles most sheet fixing and cable runs. Check the crown width if you're stapling insulation or membrane; narrow-crown staples (around 5 mm) are less visible in trim, wide-crown (10 mm and up) spread the load in softer material.

Magazine capacity matters on repetitive jobs. A 100-fastener strip is fine for occasional use; 5000-count bulk packs keep a production line running. Depth adjustment — usually a thumbwheel near the nose — sets how far the fastener sinks. Too shallow and the head sits proud; too deep and you tear the substrate. Check the exhaust direction: side-exhaust blows dust away from the operator, rear-exhaust can catch you in the face if you're working overhead.

Regular oil in the air line keeps the piston seals supple. A stuck driver or misfires usually mean dried seals or low pressure. Keep the nose clean — resin and splinters jam the feed. If you're switching fastener lengths, check the manual; some guns need a different spring or driver pin for the full range.